Lead Guitar Techniques for Creating Solos
I see this happen in a bunch of my students right around the same point in their playing. They finally get all five pentatonic positions down, and then they hit the same wall: okay, now what do I actually do with all of this information?
That’s today’s topic. This won’t be all-inclusive, there’s simply too much ground to cover in one post, but I want to give you some real things to chew on while you practice.
Follow these and your lead playing starts sounding melodic and purposeful instead of noodling and meandering.
Set up your target
For today’s example, I’m using a super simple, super standard rock progression. E minor, G, D, and A. Nothing fancy. I’m going to pick one position, walk you through how I’d approach it, and how I think most people should be approaching their lead in general.
If you don’t have a loop pedal, get one. It’s not a luxury item, it shows you where your rhythm is falling apart, where your chord changes are sloppy, all of it. You’re in control of your own practice instead of relying on a backing track that doesn’t care whether you nailed the take.
For this lesson/post, I’m using positions four and five together. I picked those two on purpose. Position four is one a lot of players (myself included) gravitate toward. Position five is the one almost nobody touches. Piecing them together is where things get interesting.
The problem with straight up and down
When most of us first learn these shapes, we do exactly one thing: run straight up, get to the top, come back down. Maybe some variation on that, but the intervals stay tight and close together the whole time.
That’s the habit we’re breaking today.
An interval is just a fancy word for the distance between two notes. This note, or that note. That’s it. And the fix for the “up and down” trap is finding some intervallic movement instead of just crawling up the scale one note at a time.
Not every chord tone is created equal
Let’s take the first octave of position four. A string, seventh to tenth fret. D string, seventh to ninth. G string, seventh to ninth. Five notes, plus the octave.
Here’s the exercise I actually give my students: play each one of those five notes over each chord in the progression, one at a time, and decide whether that note actually sounds good against that chord. All five notes are technically “correct” since they belong to the scale. They do not all sound equally good.
The root is the obvious example. You’d think the root note would sound great over everything since it’s the root of the key. It doesn’t.
Over the E minor, that root sounds great. Over the G, not so great. Over the D, not great either. Over the A, it’s great again, and there’s math behind why: E is the fifth of A. One, two, three, four, five.
There is real theory sitting under this. But at the end of the day, your ear is king. If you take one thing from this post, take that. Your ear will tell you immediately whether a note works or not, faster than any chart will.
Find your chord tones
Once you’ve done that ear test, or even if you’ve already been doing it and want the explanation behind it, the next step is finding your chord tones inside that same position. Chord tones live everywhere on the neck, but for today we’re keeping it contained to positions four and five.
E minor is a minor chord, so the formula is one, flat three, five. Good news: the pentatonic minor already hands you that. Root, flat third (skip the fourth), fifth. Done.
G is next, and it happens to be the flat third of E. One, three, five again, but this time using the major shape. That gets you the tenth fret on the A string, ninth fret on the D, twelfth fret on the D.
D I’m grabbing differently: seventh fret on the G string for the root, eleventh fret on the G string for the major third, tenth fret on the B string for the fifth.
A: seventh fret on the D string, eleventh fret on the D string, ninth fret on the G string.
So now we’ve built E minor, G major, D major, and A major entirely out of individual notes pulled almost completely from that same pentatonic minor scale. Play that progression using just those chord tones and it immediately sounds like you’re playing with intent. Because you are. You’re literally outlining the chords.
A quick word on Dorian (and why this isn’t “pure” E minor)
Here’s where it gets a little more interesting. This chord progression, and it’s an extremely common one in classic rock, isn’t actually straight E minor. It’s Dorian, a mode of the major scale.
The tell is the sixth. Natural minor gives you a flat sixth. This progression wants the natural sixth instead, which is what turns it into Dorian.
I’m bringing this up because a lot of players will just run straight pentatonic minor over the whole thing and call it a day, and it works, technically. But if you play the actual scale of whatever chord is currently ringing (E minor over the E minor, G major over the G, and so on), that’s a lot of mental gymnastics to do in real time mid-progression.
That approach shows up more in jazz, prog, and some metal, where the chord changes lead the melody more explicitly. For most rock playing, you don’t need to go that deep. I just want it in your awareness as an option.
All that takes is knowing your major scale and your minor scale. That’s genuinely it.
Stretch your intervals with diads
Here’s a fun one that also sets up our next idea. Instead of playing a full chord tone (one, flat three, five), grab just the root and the third. Two notes played together. That’s a diad, if you’ve read our diad post.
That already sounds good, but I want more space between the notes. Right now they’re sitting close together in the scale, so the easiest fix is bumping one of them up an octave.
Number your pentatonic notes: one, flat three, four, five, flat seven, then back to the root. I want the root and the third, but stretched apart. For E minor, that’s the seventh fret on the A string and the eighth fret on the B string. For G, tenth fret on the A up to the twelfth fret on the B (or tenth fret on the low E to the eleventh fret on the G, depending how you want to grab it). For A, I’m breaking out of position four a bit to grab the fifth fret on the low E and the sixth fret on the G.
Run that over the track and you can hear real harmony happening. The bass note matters because it adds motion, but that third is doing the heavy lifting.
Let CAGED do the thinking for you
Last thing, and this is the one a lot of newer players never think about: learn your CAGED system. Once you know it, you can follow your chord outlines directly and land on the right notes basically automatically.
In this position, here’s how I’d map it. E minor: the A-shaped bar chord, one of the most common shapes at the intermediate level. G: the C-shaped bar chord. D: the G-shaped D. And A, you’ve got a couple choices here. Either the C shape, or my personal favorite, essentially the G-shaped bar chord (which feels even more natural if you’re on a seven-string, and yeah, I’m a big fan of my seven-string).
The whole idea is the same one we’ve been building toward this whole post: look at the wall of notes each shape gives you, and use it as your cheat sheet while you solo. Add in the two extra notes that make this progression properly Dorian instead of straight minor, and it sounds noticeably more complete. Like you’re actually following every chord tone instead of approximating it.
Take the guesswork out
Hopefully this points you in the right direction. Instead of just going up and down a shape and hoping something lands, you now have three real tools: testing which notes actually resolve well by ear, pulling chord tones directly out of your pentatonic shapes, and using CAGED to map the whole thing out ahead of time.
It’ll take practice. It always does. But at the end of the day, the ear is still king.
If that little Dorian detour interested you, keep an eye out. We’ve got a course coming later this month covering modes, a solid crash course to get you thinking that way about your playing.
Theory isn’t scary. It’s addition and subtraction, not some mystical art. It’s the difference between building a house with blueprints versus without. When you get stuck on a wall or a corner, you’ve got something to consult instead of guessing for twenty minutes.
The great players always say you learn everything you possibly can so you can throw it all away and just play. I love that. Learn it all, then don’t think about any of it while you’re playing. It comes out in your playing anyway.